Bibliography

’90s Fashion: The Trends We All Rocked (2015) Available at: http://www.look.co.uk/fashion/90s-fashion-the-trends-we-all-rocked (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

A Spiritual Field Guide to Birds (no date) Available at: http://www.beliefnet.com/Wellness/Environment/Galleries/A-Spiritual-Field-Guide-to-Birds.aspx?p=2 (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

Clausner, A. (2014) How To Make a Kaleidoscope in Adobe Premiere Pro. Available at: https://amberclausner.wordpress.com/2014/05/05/how-to-make-a-kaleidoscope-in-adobe-premiere-pro/comment-page-1/#comment-27 (Accessed: 12 December 2015).

DANDAD.ORG., (Date Unknown). The Sound of Cos – Interview with Lernert and Sander [viewed October 2015]. Available from: http://www.dandad.org/en/sound-cos-interview-lernert-and-sander/

Danny Boyle talks ‘Trainspotting’ in 1996 interview (no date) Available at: http://www.miramax.com/subscript/trainspotting-danny-boyle-interview-1996/ (Accessed: 18 November 2015).

Dove Symbolism and Dove Meanings (no date) Available at: http://www.whats-your-sign.com/dove-symbolism.html (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

Epstein, L. (no date) 27 Forgotten Early 2000s Fashion Trends. Available at: http://www.buzzfeed.com/leonoraepstein/forgotten-early-2000s-trends#.htBYrrXGW (Accessed: 19 November 2015).

Essman, S. (2012) Blade Runner Revisited – Below The Line. Available at: http://www.btlnews.com/news/blade-runner-revisited/ (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

Lack, H. and AnOther (2012) Michael Kaplan on Blade Runner’s Iconic Costumes. Available at: http://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/2286/michael-kaplan-on-blade-runners-iconic-costumes (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

MULVEY, L., 1975. Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema. Screen, 16(3) , 9.

Murphy, R. (ed.) (2000) British Cinema of the 90s. London: British Film Institute.

Phillips, W. H. (2005) Film: An introduction. 3rd edn. Boston: Bedford/St. Martin’s.

ROMAGOSA, O., 2014. Crème caramel [viewed October 2015]. Available from: https://www.nowness.com/series/define-beauty/creme-caramel

Sasaki, K. (2015) The Details of Blade Runner. Available at: http://www.screenhead.com/details-of-blade-runner/ (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

SHOWStudio., 2013. SHOWstudio: Thoughts on Fashion Film- Nick Knight [viewed on 13/10/2015]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOBZMS9Bhr0&feature=youtu.be

THE BRITISH COUNCIL., 2013. Dressing the Screen: The Rise of the Fashion Film [viewed October 2015]. Available from: https://www.britishcouncil.sg/sites/default/files/dts_catalogue_final.pdf

Truhler, K. (2012) Cinema Style File–The Future of Style is Classic 1940s in Neo Noir BLADE RUNNER. Available at: http://www.glamamor.com/2012/01/cinema-style-file-future-of-style-is.html (Accessed: 9 November 2015).

Ulmer, J. (2010) Beats Per Minute. Available at: http://beatsperminute.com/reviews/track-review-tame-impala-solitude-is-bliss/ (Accessed: 8 November 2015).

Evaluation

I have thoroughly enjoyed this film project as I felt more inspired by the fact that the brief was very open and we were able to create any type of fashion film we wanted. I found that watching fashion films and taking note of their conventions was very helpful in coming up with ideas for mine. I found that a lot of them had similar shot types to film, however were very editorial based makeup and fashion wise. This meant that I wanted to combine the two, drawing from camera shots, lighting techniques and editing from both fashion film and normal film. Moreover, I found that researching into hair, makeup and outfits in fashion film and conventional film were useful too in that I was able to see a clear pattern in makeup and fashion in the 90’s and 00’s which was where my general theme came from. In regards to the drug and club theme, I found it useful to watch movies that were about drug and club culture as I could draw on their techniques. This included the fading transitions between scenes that I found in a lot of the films I saw which I then included in my film. I found that during this project, practice was the most imperative thing that I could have done when creating all elements of my film. The practice of the hair and makeup was extremely helpful in showing me that it wasn’t the right look, and I still had time to tweak my original idea and then use it for the assessment. Moreover, practicing filming, lighting and editing when I did the rough cut was most likely the most useful action of mine. This enabled me to prepare, set up and film for the final cut with ease and saved me a lot of time. Had I not done this, I would not have known what setting on the lights to use when using the colour gels and I would not have known that I would’ve needed 2 cameras to film the different angles of my mode. In addition to this, the simple editing that I did for my rough cut and attending Ken’s lessons gave me the essential knowledge of Adobe Premiere where I only needed to turn to the internet and youtube videos for specialised effects that I wanted in my film. Despite this, I encountered problems when editing my final cut. I wasn’t happy with some of the shots, where they were placed and some of the placements of my original effects. Therefore while editing I changed things around until I was happy with the sequence and the aesthetic without straying too far from the storyboard, and also without changing the story at all. Overall, this project has been a huge learning experience for me, more-so than anything we have done before and I feel more confident in myself in regards to artistic direction and materialising my visions with not only makeup and hair but via editing and post-production.

Photos from my Final Cut

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These are the slightly edited photos from the shoot of my final cut. I think the lighting went better here as in my rough cut she looks very washed out by the red light, however this time I turn the brightness of the bulb down and this gave a better effect. I would love to recreate these lights and do a look that is mostly focused on makeup as the lights highlight the face beautifully, which I could use to my advantage with highlighting.

However I encountered difficulty with finding a camera setting that would not use flash apart from ‘Flash Off’, and one that would take effective photos with this type of lighting as it is quite dark. These photos were taken with ‘Close Up’ setting, and I would have to take my chance as to whether it would flash or not. Therefore if I do this shoot again, I will need to do my research about camera settings so that when I get there I know exactly what I want, what will work and what will give me the most aesthetically pleasing result. Moreover, this camera setting meant that the photos weren’t fully in focus which was disappointing to discover, especially when editing.

While playing around with the photos, I found that turning the, 90 degrees to the right looked more striking as for some reason the viewer is more able to focus on the makeup. I will most likely use these photos towards a portfolio.

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Gifs and their Inspiration

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My inspiration for this gif was from when I watched ‘Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas’. I loved the mirroring effect here during Raoul’s bad reaction to drugs.

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This gif was inspired by this scene in Trainspotting. My model is tilting her head back in order to compose herself while being too high on drugs while in a setting with bright lights. This is just like this scene above from Trainspotting. Mark is visibly very high and sitting down as that is all he can do, and behind him are these bright coloured lights.

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I was also inspired by the dissolving transition between scenes in ‘It’s all Gone Pete Tong’.

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This scene from ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ was an inspiration for my kaleidoscope effect. The parting in the middle, acting as a mirror, combined with the moving patterns on both sides acts as a strange, symmetrical, hallucinogenic, aesthetically pleasing effect which creates another dimension for the viewer to look at.

 

Editing My Final Cut

All in all, editing my final cut took about 12 hours (non-stop). Despite this, I really enjoyed the process of post-production and creating the idea that I had visualised, which I feel that I had done, and more.

In the end, I didn’t stick to my storyboard rigorously and I realise that in the professional world, this is not something that would happen. However, I feel that because the middle of the film was not of a conventional narrative approach, I was able to get away with placing clips where I deemed appropriate if what I had written in the storyboard didn’t actually look very good.

I also found that with a lot of the effects and overlaying that I used, I had not put in my storyboard as I was only able to visualise these things once I had started editing rather than when I had created the storyboard. I think that this is because I have a very limited experience with editing and creating films, and editing my film was more of a learning curve and I discovered a lot of different effects and techniques that I did not know I could do. I found that experimenting was really useful, and from editing my rough cut I already knew how to use or create some of the effects, however the most complicated techniques I learnt while editing my final cut.

Kaleidoscope Effect

What I was really proud of was the fact that I was able to create the kaleidoscope effect that I had previously stated that I wanted to include in my film. While editing my rough cut, I watched a youtube tutorial on how to create this effect, however it was very complicated and I thought that it was too technical for me to achieve at this stage. Despite this, I was determined to have it as it was a main feature in my film that I thought really aided the hallucinogenic theme. Therefore, while editing my final cut, I trawled through the internet in the hopes of finding a straight forward guide to creating this kaleidoscope effect, and surprisingly I found one:

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This was the most easy, straight forward guide that I found and I was able to effortlessly turn a video of a tapestry in my room that looked like this:

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To this:

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I changed the colouring to match my blue and pink/red theme using these settings that I created through experimentation:

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Title with moving image

Another element that I came up with while editing my film was the idea to create a title that had the moving kaleidoscope inside the text. I searched the internet to find a video or guide to see whether this was possible, and I found this video of which I followed the steps:

I was then able to create this title with the kaleidoscope effect that I had made behind it which I thought is an effective foreshadow to what the rest of the video will be like:

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Recolouring lighting

Problem: I was originally meant to film the first section and last section of my film on 30/11/15, and had a studio booked at 5pm with a white background. However on the same day, I had my special effects makeup assessment, and was on my feet doing makeup for 6 hours straight. Unfortunately, after concentrating really hard for that period of time and having to have walked back home and then back to university by 5pm when it was already 4:30pm, I did not have an ounce of energy to do this nor did I think I would have enough time and therefore ended up not filming that day.

The next day I looked for any other slots I could book and, predictably, around deadline season there were no slots whatsoever, and so I ended up having to film during an open access time on 9/12/15. I got there at 10am and the booths with the white backgrounds had been taken, and I was left with one that had a grey background which was really disappointing as the white background was imperative for the first and last scenes. Despite this, I filmed anyway.

What I did to overcome this was change the lighting via editing in these scenes and this was the difference it made:

I think I did well in getting rid of the yellowness of the lighting while trying to maintain the texture of the jacket, the skin and the hair. This is still not as good as it would look if I had a white background, however I am happier with the result of the right images rather than if I left them to look like they do on the left.

Mirroring and overlay

I knew from my first storyboard that I wanted to create a mirrored effect in my film. I did this in my rough cut and it was easy to replicate again in my final cut. However during this, I had a clip of my model wearing a fringed jacket and the whole of the fringing on the back was visible, and I wanted to include this somewhere in my film. I decided to overlay it on top of the mirrored dancing, and this works well in a symmetrical, shapely manner that is inspired by the symmetry and use of patterns and shapes that Ruth Hogben is famous for in her fashion films.

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Overall

I am pleased with how my film has turned out. It is very much like how I envisaged it to be in my head when I first came up with idea, and I am pleased that I was able to create effects that I wanted and more by the end of it. It has been a huge learning process for me and I have thoroughly enjoyed putting my work into motion and using post-production in a way that can enhance my ideas further. I am glad that I chose something that I felt was a challenge for me, as this type of visual creation is exactly what most interests me day to day on Instagram when I see magazines, makeup artists and artistic directors that create hallucinogenic, colourful videos or looks.

Resources/Sources

Clausner, A. (2014) How To Make a Kaleidoscope in Adobe Premiere Pro. Available at: https://amberclausner.wordpress.com/2014/05/05/how-to-make-a-kaleidoscope-in-adobe-premiere-pro/comment-page-1/#comment-27 (Accessed: 12 December 2015).

Filming my Final Cut

Filming my final cut came with some ups and some downs. My first and final scenes in the studio did not go well, whereas the dance/drug scenes went perfectly.

Negatives

Firstly, I was unable to film my first and final scenes on the day that I had booked the studio as I was unable to attend due to doing a special effects makeup assessment for 6 hours straight. This was a blow as I wanted to get the footage out of the way, however I still had 2 weeks to go so decided to film another day. I went during an open access period, however the studios with the white backgrounds were gone, meaning that I had to film in a studio with a grey background which was completely the wrong look that I had intended to have.

Despite this, I filmed anyway and got the footage. However when looking at it, I was very disappointed as I had not zoomed in very well during the beginning as I had hoped, and the fact that I used a  Canon 550D meant that the zoom was handheld and kept getting stuck so I couldn’t make it smooth. I originally wanted to use a Dolly for this, however was unable to get one out as my friend that studies film told me that they were rented out.

Moreover, I wanted a close up of the face during the beginning, however my shot of this did not work as my model was eating a sandwich, and by the time I had filmed that it was almost fully eaten. This meant that if I had included it, she would have a small bit of sandwich left in the middle of a scene where she was eating a half eaten sandwich, which is a failure continuity wise. Therefore I decided to use another clip from the side angle that I had filmed. This was disappointing though as I now feel that at the beginning there isn’t enough variety of the shots.

In regards to shots, I feel as if I don’t have enough long shots of my model. I would have been able to do this had I filmed in the infinity cove, however as I only filmed in a photography studio, had I filmed a long shot landscape, it would have shown the wall and the floor around the colourama. This meant that I was only able to get mid shots and close ups, which I don’t think is a large enough variety, however I think this is mildly supplemented with the long and wide shots from Amsterdam, London and Manchester.

Positives

I was pleased with how the dancing scenes of my filming went. I prefer the lighting this time more than during my rough cut as I feel mostly it doesn’t wash out my model as much as it did.

I like how the silver glitter reflects underneath the eyes, and I think that this gives my model an edge. This combined with her acting, especially when she aggressively takes a pill, is a strong juxtaposition between her coyness in the first scenes.

There were some scenes that worked so well in my rough cut, such as my model taking off and putting on her jacket, that I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to do so well in my final cut. However I feel as if I still managed to achieve this look and effect well.

 

Importance of Continuity

Did you record the makeup used and where you bought it from? The hair products?

I did record the makeup used. Whenever creating face charts and doing a practice, I write underneath what products were used and also what colour (s), which is especially important with foundations. I practiced the hair before so knew which products to use, the only cosmetic product was hairspray and I used two small black elastic hairbands. I did not record where I got the products from, apart from the glitter, as these were all branded so I can just get them online if I need them.

Did you record how much you would need of everything?

I did not do this but it would have been helpful for creating the foundation colour as I had to guess the ratio of colours each times.

Did you have enough makeup/products or did you run out making it difficult to recreate the look?

I did have enough makeup products. The fact that I did a practice helped me a lot; if during the practice I could see that I didn’t have much product left, then I would have made a note of this and bought some more in preparation for the assessment.

Did you have accurate hair and makeup charts detailing how to create the looks?

Yes, I feel as if I did as it helped me create the practice, which then helped me create the first look which ultimately gave me enough practice and photos to create the look in the second assessment.

If you or another person had to recreate the look weeks or months from now would this be possible?

I think it would as I feel as if my photos show the looks accurately, and also I have detailed the products on the face chart so they would have all the relevant materials.

Did you take enough images of your work? From every angle?

I feel as if I did this. The most important angles are the front, sides, and the back, and I also took more than one photo of the makeup to show what it looked like from a mid shot and also a close up, with the eyes closed and from an angle.

Did you make sure you had the first images to hand when repeating the look for a second time?

I did. I printed off images of the look from the front, back, sides. This was particularly helpful when creating the hair as I needed to make sure that the plaits were in exactly the same place, and having photos showing this made it relatively easy to copy.

Looking at your pictures what worked and what didn’t? Why?

What worked was the look of the makeup and how it looked the same both times. However, what didn’t work was getting the waviness of the hair the same both times. This was very difficult and I also found difficulty in making the fringe look the same as it had been curled in a certain way that I didn’t replicate well. I thought I had replicated it, however when the photos are put next to eachother it is apparent that I didn’t do this.

What would you do differently next time? And how could you improve better/ be better prepared?

Next time, I would make sure  that I get the hair exactly right, and if I am creating wavy hair, make sure that the waves are in the correct places and the same direction.

What have you learnt from this experience?

From this experience, I have learnt that it is imperative to practice your look before you create it properly, as you may encounter problems and also it gives you an idea of timings and also how you are going to do it exactly on the day. It is very important to be completely organised so the process is smooth. Photos of the look are also very important, and this needs to be followed exactly or there is no chance of getting the continuity exactly right.

Continuity Comparisons

When looking a the photos together, I think I did well in terms of keeping the makeup the same. I feel as if the eyeshadow, the skin and contouring, the blush and the lips all look almost exact. However it is the hair that I feel is not exactly the same.

I think that the placing of the plaits is almost exact, however the fringe in the second assessment looks more brushed out than the first, and I tried to replicate the natural look of the first but I don’t think that I did it effectively enough.

The waves at the back of the hair in the second assessment are much neater than the first and this is something that I should have taken into account. I had the photo of the back of the hair printed off, yet I seem to not have taken notice that the hair near the roots in the first assessment is more wavy compared to the hair near the roots of the second which is straight.

If I were to do this assessment again, I would definitely take closer note of the hair and what the texture is in the most important places. I think that the root is a noticeable area from the back, whereas the ends of the hair change throughout the day. If the roots are wavy, they will stay wavy.